Since Lasse and I got back from GC I havn´t been surfing at all, only windsursing. So when my friend Jonas called me and said that the forecast looked good this Sunday I had to meet up with him since he just got back after a six months long trip to Sri Lanka and Indo. The swell directions wasn´t perfect for the spot witch i never surfed before but it was good enough to have some party waves with good friends! I see great potential in this spot though. I think we can get some really good once there if we time the perfect swell.
After the surf we went to surfers paradise to look at some new gear. Kind of want to get a 7.0 semi longboard type of board ( Jonas had one and it looked gooooood). Ended up picking up a hat and a new wetsuit for the upcoming kid.
If you haven’t heard about the Resano family from Playa Popoyo Nicaragua its about time you look up some of there movies. The family live at Playa Popoyo in Nicaragua. The dad Manuel Resano is a hella good surfer, but the cool thing with the family is hes three daughters. The two older once are surfing bigger waves then I do and I am sure they all going pro one day.
I had the pleasure to surf with the dad and two of his daughters at the main break at Popoyo some years ago. Manuel pushed hes daughters into the biggest sets and it was epic to see. Later that week Erica and I was lucky enough to share a table with them at the loca pizza place. They are some cool young girls!
Me and Lars just got back home from another trip to Gran Canaria. We spent a week there and where lucky to have waves every day. This is some of the photos from the trip. To be able to surf all over the island we got a rental car for the week. We spent some time in the west, east and north surfing. Overall it was a really good trip !!
Its almost two years ago Erica and I did our trip through Central America. When we were there the internet capacity didn´t allow med to upload all the movies I wanted, and when I got back I had a lot of material that I hadn´t used. So a couple of days ago I sat down and did a quick edit from Las flores in El Salvador.
During the Christmas holiday the ice set at Vassbotten in Vänersborg. Thanks to strong wind a couple of degrees warmer weather we got some open water. During the afternoon on January second the wind was good enough for Lars and I to jump in the water to get the first surf of 2015. The water temperature was about one degree Celsius and the air was about the same. Even though we put on the winter suits it was pretty could and hard to hold on to the sail when the wind picked up. Lars seems to be chilling in the water on one of the photos, but I can tell you that my toes was pretty cold and my index fingers was frozen hard.
The surf wasn’t perfect but it felt good to be in the water again after a kind of slow fall. Thanks IH for taking the photos!
This past week I started working at my new job. This means a more interesting job, but also more freedom as I wrote in the last post. Me and Lasse my surf buddy who is the guy I developing Hapfind with, worked on Monday and a couple of hours the next day before it was time for the first lunch break surf session. We went to a place called Oljehamnen just outside Vänersborg. We have surfed there a couple of times before and the wind direction was pretty good.
Later on this past week we the wind picked up again and we where able to long board at another spot in Lake Vänern. Really good week!!
Last night I looked at the recordings from earlier that day, and was very happy when I saw the result. The videos almost looked as good as it felt… witch isn´t normal if you ask me. The wind was perfect, the sun was going down behind Dalbobergen, the water was warm and the surf felt goooood.
Next week I am starting a new job were I can be even more flexible with the hours so I can jump in the water when it´s good surf and work when it isn´t.
After a couple of good days up in Hoddevika Andreas and I said goodbye to all the old and new friends we had meet. Twelve hours later I was home, another six hours I was at work… Life feels weird some times.
A couple of hours in to work earlier today Lars called me and asked if I couldn´t get of earlier since the wind looked really good and the sun started to come out. I just got back home from a surf trip but why not get some more surf at the lake. I am glad I got the afternoon of since the surf was probably one of my best at Vänern. We surfed until sunset and now I am trying to figure out which Alt-J song I should use to the recordings.
Last night the storm hit Hoddevika. Andreas and I woke up at 2am when the whole house was shaking because of the strong winds. Apparently the storm was classed as a hurricane. So today we started the day with a morning walk out to the pier to check out the wave conditions. It is still a bit stormy to paddle out. Hopefully the storm will create some good sandbanks for later today or tomorrow morning before we leave.
Andreas and I got a message from my friend who is working at the surf hostel Stad Surfing in Hoddevika. They told us that a good swell were kicking in this weekend so we decided to check it out. After a car breakdown in the beginning of the trip we were finally on the road with a new car 3 hours later than expected. Finally there we got two surfs sessions the first day. During the sunset a guy staying at the hostel snapped some photos from the beach. I asked him if I could have them so that’s way I am able to make this post.
The swell is picking up right now and Andreas and I are ready for the second surf today. Tomorrow is supposed to be big.. could be interesting